It was the serenity and the sense of escape that attracted me to Joshua Tree National Park – a trek and camping trip that offered it all. Driving to the meeting point, we were surrounded by an arid expanse of boulders, rocks, a little greenery and not much more, but against the bright blue sky, it was just what I was hoping for.
We met at the Indian Grove Campground is where we meet, a 44-gallon firepit, wooden grill and drop toilet give you all the essentials. It’s incredibly clean, actually sparse, in line with the stark desert surroundings.
Instantly, you can feel there’s something magical and mystical about this place. The rocky outcrops are scattered haphazardly, boulders perched precariously on top of each other, seemingly a breeze away from toppling over. Depending on the light, they appear cream, grey, pink, sparkling, harsh, rough and rugged. It’s so quiet that every footstep crunches, every conversation echoes… you’re vividly aware of time and place.
In the distance is the low-rise scatter of buildings which signify the start of the desert town. It doesn’t feel so isolated now – a campsite never really does – but we’re looking forward to some solitude in the nights to come.
On the first night, there’s not much hiking – just a little exploring. The good news is our tent is already set up in a cosy spot under the granite boulders, looking out past a bush towards what will be sunrise.
Our guide from Lasting Adventures is Kara. She greets us on arrival, organises our packs, then cooks up a storm – dinner is a polenta and chicken recipe, apparently a new one. It’s tasty, and there’s plenty of it.
When we show an interest in photographing a sunset, Kara springs into action. Soon, we’re in her truck and headed to Keys View lookout – and how we’re rewarded! Perched on the crest of the Little San Bernardino Mountains, the view of Coachella Valley and beyond is superb, taking in the Santa Rosa Mountains, San Jacinto Peak and San Gorgonio Mountain.
The idyllic end to the night has us sitting around the campfire, sparks jumping, flames crackling, the smell of smoke wafting past. The silence is comforting and the perfect balm for a great night’s sleep.
Sunrise sees the granite slabs around us glistening gold in the first light. The rock faces are stunning reds and greys – it’s breathtaking.
After breakfast, we pack-up, do a quick car drop-off and we’re hiking. Day two has us strapping on large, heavy backpacks, loaded with tents, bedding, clothing and food for the next few days. It doesn’t sound like a lot, but it is. Especially when we hit the Boy Scout Trail and start our journey under the hot Mojave Desert sun. There’s no trees to shade the hike and the temperature starts to saw.
We head straight into the National Park towards the Maze, a plethora of granitic monoliths. They’re everywhere: all shapes, all sizes, perched precariously atop one another. It’s a sight to behold. The trail is clearly marked and well-worn – the park is immaculately maintained. We immediately spot desert flowers in full bloom – vibrant against the arid dirt.
But most of all, and not by coincidence, it’s the Joshua Trees you notice. They’re abundant, of all ages, shapes and sizes, each with its own charm and character. They’re weird and wacky, but also pensive and pointed. The other desert plant life pales in comparison – as beautiful as it may be, the Joshua Tree is undoubtedly the star of the show.
It’s the stark contrast of the Mojave Desert that makes it so remarkable, crossing dry creek beds where crumbling quartz has formed narrow, sandy waterways that clearly don’t see much water. We trek through rock canyons, surrounded by rugged mountains, and walk among rock piles strewn across the desert land. It’s obvious why they call this place The Maze, each turn takes you further into the unknown. It would be easy to get lost.
Our next campsite is chosen by Kara – it’s off-track and hidden behind a set of boulders overlooking a vast desert plain. Behind us, a hillside made up of huge granite slabs.
We set up camp in time to lie in the shade of the boulders, reveling in the silence and soaking in the view – whichever way you turn. It’s food for the soul.
The desert sunset turns the clouds a dramatic grey with licks of red, crimson and pink swirling across the horizon. It’s a dramatic display against the hills and distant rock outcroppings.
Because we’re not in an approved campsite, there’s no campfire tonight. After another dinner whipped up by Kara, we sit and reflect in the quiet, gazing up at the huge night sky. The stars are shining bright and clear against the silhouette of the mountain ranges and never ending horizon. After a brief astronomy lesson, spotting Orion and his belt and Gemini, we head to bed early.
Somehow, we manage to sleep until 8am and wake to brilliant sunshine streaming through our tent. It’s a welcome sight after the temperature dropped to about six degrees overnight. After a breakfast of hot oats, berries and coffee, we pack lighter day packs and head out on a 9km circuit that takes us deeper into the Maze. The terrain becomes a bit gravellier, undulating up and down through this granite playground.
In this seemingly barren landscape, juniper bushes flourish. There’s jojoba too, and desert flowers blooming in the most unexpected places. The barrel cacti are a favourite – stout, prickly and every shade of pink. The teddy bear cholla, despite looking cute and fluffy, are anything but.
The sky is a crisp, clear blue with puffs of cottony clouds. Tiny birds chirp delicately – so fragile against the hard desert backdrop.
A common feature throughout the park are the deep dikes running through the boulders – formed when molten rock pushed into joint fractures. They vary in length and thickness, creating stunning contrasts. It really is a powerful landscape that gives pause for reflection – the silence, serenity and tranquillity, set against the unforgiving desert terrain. The sheer size of the granite stones, the slabs of rock, the desert flora, the endless horizon – it’s a spectacle.
But unfortunately, you can’t completely escape modern life, no matter how remote it feels. The silence is occasionally broken by the sound of a plane overhead. Or, during one hike, the trail leads us through a car park – that was a bit disconcerting. Just as we were settling into a sense of isolation, cars started zooming past! It lasted about ten minutes, and then all was forgotten – but still it was a bit odd.
We hike out along the Boy Scout Trail where we left off days ago, heading towards the Indian Cove Trailhead. It’s a tough 9km – uphill and down, in and out of valleys, across scree, pebbles and trails carved out by intense desert storms. The flat desert plain in the final kilometre is a welcome relief with the sense of isolation remaining right up until the end. It delivered all we hoped for with our sense of balance restored, minds clear and a deeper understanding of the magic of the Joshua Tree.
Planning this from Australia, the hosted camping experience was fantastic. Lasting Adventures provided all the camping and sleeping gear, backpacks and food. The attention to detail was impressive and made the trek truly memorable. On top of that, having Kara cook and prepare each meal was a bonus, especially considering the “Leave No Trace” principles the company follows. Watching her cook, scrape bowls and wash up was a masterclass in minimalism and zero waste – genuinely impressive. She even tried to give us a demonstration on how to squat. We assured her it wasn’t necessary – we’re Aussies, after all!
