By pure chance, we ended up in Washington D.C. on ‘Liberation Day’, the day Donald Trump unleashed a storm of tariffs. The media was in uproar, the markets nosedived, and everyone around us seemed to be bracing for impact as the country teetered on the brink of disaster. A few days later, we were in Philadelphia, swept up in one of the nationwide protests. Standing there on the pavement, caught in a sea of people from the elderly to the young, families to business owners, it was a real eye-opener… the chants, the passion, the sheer volume of voices demanding to be heard. It was chaotic, but absolutely fascinating. Then came New York, a city that promises everything — and it did not disappoint, roaring to life with a raw, relentless energy.
DC
Thank goodness for the excitement of politics, because we’d started the east coast trip in Washington DC and as a city it was full of blocky, windowless concrete buildings, grey streets, and an atmosphere that just fell flat. It’s a place built for function, not for beauty, and there isn’t a lot that looks fun. The Enid A. Haupt Gardens tucked away at the Smithsonian were lovely, a small oasis of green, and the National Mall had a certain charm, but the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Reflecting Pool and the White House were all unremarkable.
That said, the array of Smithsonian museums is seriously impressive, and they’re free. The National Air and Space Museum, in particular, was brilliant The Command Module Columbia up close was amazing, such an impressive feat to fit astronauts into those tiny capsules… they are true heroes. And the Wright Flyer, a spark of genius that first took to the skies, an extraordinary piece of history on display.
We joined a guided tour at the National Archives Museum, where the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution, and the Bill of Rights sit behind glass – they are a very faded but there is a definite sense of history. It gave us great context explaining key moments and figures, plus a look into government and political life back then, which was timely given what’s going on today.
The Capitol was the highlight from the tour we joined, that was full of tales and history, to the grand dome and polished floors. With points of interest all around, like the statues positioned throughout the building, all gifted by the States, each with their own story to tell. There was an aura of intrigue, power and determination… it exuded importance and prestige.
Would I go back? Honestly, no. DC is a political city. It was dry, characterless and a bit boring. I’m sure there are some cool pockets if you know where to look, but as an outsider, the overall impression was underwhelming. And once you’ve done it… you’ve done it. It’s very much a tick it off the list kind of place.
But always thinking of food… some restaurants of note include St Anselm, Rappahannock Oyster Bar, Blue Duck Tavern, Fiola and Le Diplomate.
Philly
We headed to the ‘birthplace of America’, Philadelphia. Contrary to popular belief we were not going to Philly for the Cheesesteak or the cream cheese – from what I’d read it looked like a cool, fun kind of place with bars and restaurants, plus lots of local gems. We had an Airbnb in Fishtown which was perfect spot to re-charge, except the area didn’t produce all we had been looking forward to. It was pretty well shut down until 4pm, it was edgy but not in a fun way, and there was something that didn’t quite sit right.
But we had to give the city a chance and were keen to learn more about it so we joined a tour to hear about the first Continental Congress and the Constitutional Convention. It was a little strange as our guide was British but he was knowledgeable and had lots to share as we passed through Independence Park, Liberty Bell, the Old City and into Museum of the American Revolution.
There was a real gem among the tour, it was the story of Ona Judge. A young slave who dared to escape the chains of Benjamin Franklin, risking everything for a life of her own, even though he offered a reward for her capture and return. Ironically, Franklin later became a major figure in the abolitionist movement, but this was after owning slaves for much of his life. Her story is remarkable and largely unknown, which made it all the more fascinating.
For a different take on Philadelphia, we decided to do a walking food and market tour. We met our host Sean at City Hall, an ornate old building of brick, white marble and limestone, standing proud as a National Historic Landmark, it was here you could get a real sense of the old world wealth and splendour of the place. From there we strolled to the Reading Terminal Market – it’s here that Philly comes alive with an abundance of fresh produce and local delights, stalls cooking, sharing and selling. It’s a rich mix of cultures, customs and traditions producing superb fare and food for all. We wandered through the streets and sampled local cheese, fresh pastries, hot pizza, gelato and dropped into Chinatown.
But again, it was the unexpected that added to the experience – a national street march was underway with mass unrest about the Government, tariffs and the role of Elon Musk. People young and old, different races, colours and genders all involved, chanting, yelling, protesting. It was a declaration that got louder the longer we were there but given how tumultuous times were, we didn’t engage, we just stood and watched the spectacle. It was something to see coming from a country that doesn’t engage that much.
My overall feeling of Philly was a little sad, it’s run-down with a weariness hanging in the air, and locals who seemed aloof, are weighed down by it all. The majestic old capital has long left behind its glory days, now dealing with the modern struggles of drugs, homelessness, and crime. It is an edgy, restless place yet there’s something undeniably fascinating about it, with glimpses of its past grandeur still evident. I found that there’s a real sense that Philly is fighting through its challenges, and maybe with a bit of time, it’ll reclaim its charm and charisma, but for the time being I was happy to move on.
New York City
With our two side trips done, we proceeded to the main event… New York, the city that never sleeps, where dreams are made and there’s nothing you can’t do. It’s all there for the taking and we were super excited to be there.
It was cold when we arrived with steam billowing up from the subway grates, graffiti covering the buildings, people racing down the streets, food trucks dishing out sizzling local specialities, and traffic in utter chaos with horns blaring, drivers yelling, the city buzzing non-stop. It was everything I imagined New York would be!
We stayed at The Dominick Hotel in SoHo, eager to dive right into the local hustle and bustle. Our suite on the 25th floor offered a breathtaking view of the Empire State Building, with a panorama of the endless traffic, sparkling lights and constant action below. It was pure magic.
Now like everyone who visits a city for the first time, there’s the obvious tourist traps including the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, Central Park bike and horse rides… the list goes on, but once you tick off the big-ticket items, you realise there’s a whole other side to the city just waiting to be uncovered.
A show on Broadway was a must, so we were lucky to get tickets to George Clooney’s new play “Good Night, and Good Luck”. It was at the Wintergarden, a stunning old theatre dripping in old-world glamour. With soaring, ornate ceilings, glittering chandeliers, plush velvet seats and a warmth that made the whole experience feel intimate and magical. It was pure show business perfection.
On the other end of the spectrum, we went to The Stand Comedy Club. It was a Tuesday night so a little slow but the small stage, dim lighting, and punchy local humour gave it that gritty, authentic New York vibe. Another must.
Then came Yankee Stadium, and even though it was cold, wet and miserable, it didn’t dampen our spirits. Maybe it was the Bronx energy, maybe it was the great seats and the suite, but the atmosphere was still there, and we loved it. Baseball fanatics shouting, singing, living and breathing every play. I can only imagine what it would be like on a sunny day with a full house… so alive.
New York is undoubtedly a food destination, where every street corner is a new culinary adventure, from Michelin-hatted restaurants to street-side food trucks, trendy bars to bustling fast food joints… whatever you want, it’s close-by.
But back to basics and the top of my to-do list was a big New York slice of ‘pie’ at 2 Bros Pizza on 7th Avenue. What a treat, it was greasy, cheesy, crisp crust and super soft inside… simply scrumptious.
Steakhouses are everywhere in New York, but I chose the Empire Steakhouse in Midtown East, as it was a stone’s throw from Broadway and on our way to the theatre. Housed inside an old opera theatre, it oozed charm and opulence with lush velvet booths, polished leather seats and towering ornate ceilings adorned with crystal chandeliers. An army of waiters were on hand offering flawless service with thick Brooklyn accents – it felt like we were in a mob movie. And the steak? It was pure heaven – so tender it practically melted in your mouth. Absolutely superb.
For a quick and healthy salad we hit up Westville Hudson and for something a little finer, with a Michelin star we ventured into the Financial District to Crown Shy. In an old art deco building the restaurant is on the ground floor with an open kitchen, soaring ceilings and marble floors, the deco lives up to the food, as did the service. Into China Town we were treated to some special dishes at Peking Duck House – it was even BYO! The Soho Room NY was a bar provided all the local entertainment we needed on a Friday afternoon. It was comfy, very local, happy hour prices and a funny barmaid with definite Cheers vibes.
In a city that is a gastronomic superstar my restaurant recommendations include Shinzo Omakase, Sartiano’s and Jean’s, Chez Fifi and Moody Tongue Pizza.
SoHo was the perfect place to wander through the lively streets of New York. There was something to discover at every turn. Towering buildings above, the rumble of the subway below, and a vibrant fusion of people, culture, and everyday life in between. It’s always busy, on the go and super charged, it’s the New York I’d dreamt of and, a week, barely scratched the surface.
