The landscape is dry and sparce, but there’s something ancient and strangely familiar about it. We’ve arrived in Casablanca but it’s hard to get a read on the place, the airport is non-descript, cleaner than I’d imagined, orderly and efficient… I’m waiting for the chaos to hit.
We head to Rabat with either side of the highway giving away few clues, still it’s seems desolate, harsh and unforgiving but there’s the occasional burst of green, or a cluster of buildings brightly painted. There’s signs of decay, old buildings and rubbish, in contrast, the road is well maintained, new even, smooth and well designed.
We arrive in Rabat, the capital of Morocco and I’m completely surprised. It’s meticulously clean, well-manicured, structured and organised. There is no rubbish anywhere… literally none, they’re the cleanest streets I’ve ever seen! The gardens along the highways, street and rue’s are in bloom, plants shaped, palm trees gloriously swaying in the breeze. I’m at a loss… this isn’t the Morocco I had in my head.
The Story Hotel is in the ambassadorial area, safe, super clean and well kept… no big surprises here. But I’m curious for what tomorrow will bring. Have we just travelled the groomed route into the wealthy area or is there more to it?
There’s a faint chirping of birds as the dawn breaks and a bit of a chill to the air but the sky, it’s already a clear blue, that I later find intensifies during the day. Where we are staying it seems a little slow to wake, there’s not much movement until after 8, and even then, it’s not a rush, there’s a sense of calm.
Our first call is at the 12th century, and UNESCO World Heritage site of the unfinished mosque and Hassan Tower. It’s position overlooking the city, the sea and the land behind is both strategic and beautiful, but apparently the new King didn’t want to take off where the old one left off so abandoned the site and constructed his own. Amazingly the bones of the mosque still exist and it is impressive with the surrounding walls being renovated. I later discover there is a massive injection of money from UNESCO and various organisations to restore many of Morocco’s ancient sites.
A walk through the Mellah of the medina uncovers the Rabbi Shalom Zaoui Synagogue in– it is the beginning of what I find to be a deep connection with the Jewish community and the Moroccans. The medina has markets in the alleyways, the views to the Atlantic Ocean are impressive, and again, the street and clean and the buildings well maintained. The hustle and bustle of the markets illustrates how everyday life weaves itself in amongst the tourist trade that now seems to be back in force (after COVID) and a big part of life. There are plastic drums filled with milk being poured into empty water bottles, lids are replaced and they’re put on a makeshift counter to sell… no pasteurisation, no refrigeration, and by the uptake from the locals, no problem! Chickens cluck in hay filled hutches, with chicken carcasses placed on top and eggs to the side – they are definitely getting all, they can out of one product! The butchered meat is bountiful, an amazing array of fresh fruit, vegetable, herbs and of course spices, dates, and bakes goods. It’s not a huge medina but well worth a stroll through to connect to the past and the present.
Out on the footpath there’s a street sweeper, he’s armed with a dried palm frond and plastic bag, sweeping the road and gutters… it’s spotless. In contrast, there’s the strikingly modern Grand Theatre of Rabat, along side major construction on infrastructure and the soon to be completed high rise that will house offices and commercial buildings, along with a parking lot agan surrounded by immaculate gardens. It’s a stark contrast, the old and the new.
The Casbah is situated at the mouth of the river, high on the cliff, the entrance lined with palm trees and beautifully paved paths. Through the gate is another series of alleyways and residential buildings. The gardens, apparently magnificent, are undergoing renovation so there’s no entry. The residences are inhabited by the family and heirs of soldiers, the protectors of the Casbah. Some have been converted into hotels, hotel, tourist accommodation, others continue to house everyday families. While there’s a couple of cheesy tourist stalls it’s worth the visit just to see the intricate tile, stone and wood work.
The Museum of Modern Art, a newly restored building, stands magnificently in the city centre. It’s a great building to admire the architecture and the various displays offer an insight into the history and culture of Morocco. There’s a photographic showing when we’re there… this was confronting and unexpected given we’re in such a conservative country… there’s nudity, homosexuality, partying and sex… great photos though!
For lunch the driver suggested Al Marsa in the Port de Plaisance at the Marina du Bouregreg. It was superb, the service, the food and the setting, on the water looking around the river to the Casbah.. pure magic.. A word of warning though, the servings are huge but somehow everyone around us managed to put away three courses – we were done at two! The bluefin carpaccio was a standout.
Next off we’re headed to Fes but a note on the Story Rabat. The rooms and the property are superb, all is immaculate and sumptuous, a real treat. The service, whether breakfast, dinner or drinks, was average to say the best. Wrong orders, slow service, mix ups, generally a lack of skill, care or attention to detail. A shame but something that can definitely be improved.
