We head to Fes, via Volubilis, a partly excavated Roman-Berber city near Meknes. On arrival you can see why they chose this site at the foot of the Jebel Zerhoun, it’s fertile, well protected, has water, and apparently had plenty of lions for the Romans to send to the colosseum! We’re met at the 3rd BC archaeological site by Hamid – this guy knows his stuff, he’s just farewelling guests from the American Embassy and takes a call from the University, they want to use him tomorrow.
Hamid begins with an explanation of the Roman grid system and then goes through everything from the building structures, layout, uses of water, mosaics and civilisation hierarchy. It’s enthralling, from the intertwined history of the Phoenicians, Romans and Berbers to an entertaining use of mythology, geography and economics, there’s a story and fact behind every relic. Fun facts like the wealthy would lie on beds and be fed all day long – uncovered mosaic tile artwork displays where the lounges would have been placed in each room. In this vein, gluttony was a sign of wealth which meant they were bulimic so they could basically gorge and vomit all day long! Not socially acceptable today that’s for sure! Another one was the use of the public toilets; benches, with well-placed holes, is where business men and scholars would gather to ‘do their business’… literally! The hour we spent with Hamid was a highlight on so many levels, and what I’d anticipated as an interesting tour was truly impressive. A must for anyone in the area.
Lunch was at Château Roslane, North Africa’s premiere winery and has been listed as a château viticole for the quality of its wines. In such an unforgiving climate, irrigation rules, with crop, vines and feedstock standing out of from a landscape that is dry and harsh, suffering badly from years of severe drought. The Chateau is charming, built during the French occupation when vines, horticulturist and wine makers were brought over from France. There’s an array of grapes here but the majority of production is red wine, and apparently, it’s the best in Morocco.
Lunch is served around the pool, our table set with crisp linen and fine crystal, looking over the vineyards, olive trees swaying in the breeze, it was damn fine! The meal met up to the surrounds, gazpacho followed by a tasty chicken dish and a sublime lemon tart to complete, all matched with wines of the vineyard. The sparkling white we began with was crisp and refreshing, the dry white, light, slightly minerally and subtle enough for the gazpacho, with the red not overpowering the chicken dish. The dessert wine a perfect match for the sharp citrus of the tart.
Taking a quick tour of the working cellars after lunch in the original Chateau, there’s state-of-the-art stainless-steel vats, sorting tables and processing machinery, it’s spick and span. They’re sparkling clean and modern; the wine is not old but its plentiful and the barrel room immaculately kept. All in all, a great homage to the winemakers from past and present.
Leaving Meknes and driving towards Fes, the precision and order of the fields stood out. The soil was freshly turned, olive trees planted in long neat lines, fences strong and straight. Sheep, goats and cows were grazing, either in the fields, or due to the drought, in an oasis of green with a herder, standing with a stick, a dog and a whole lot of time to think. The history and respect of both land and stock was apparent.
Once in Fes we drive up the boulevard towards the Kings Palace, it’s a sight to behold with a striking façade and huge gold doors. The palms trees and gardens portray a sense of pride, order and wealth, understandable when it’s often considered the cultural, spiritual, and intellectual heart of Morocco. The city is built on two banks, the east founded in about 789 and the west bank around 809, in the middle runs the River Fes. Today the city landscape is scattered with buildings up and down both hill sides, surrounded by oil groves and orchards.
Old Fes founded in the 9th century is Fes el Bali, adjoining this is Fes el-Jdid (New Fez) founded in 1276. Both are a labyrinth of alleyways, corridors, secret doors and hidden passages. Inside the medina it’s clean and cool with the tall walls protecting the Riads from the harsh Moroccan sun. There’s an aged grimy feel to the paving, the cobblestones well-worn and the doors mainly shut closed, it’s a design that served well in such a brutal climate.
We’re staying at Riad Fes, the entrance is not grand until you step through to the atrium. It’s three stories high where majestic wood and marble work adorn the walls and pillars, luxurious lounges, rich fabrics, tapestries and glistening mosaics… it’s sight to behold. It’s a sanctuary in the madness of the Medina, but that’s the whole concept so it’s not surprising! The roof top bar looks out over the old city right through to the Atlas Mountains. The cream buildings, dot the hillside and town area, blending in with the sand, desert and mountains around them.
Venturing into the ancient medina for dinner, scurrying down dark alleyways, turning left, right, who know where, we arrive at Dar Anebar, it’s inside another Riad but it’s charming, as are the staff. The food an absolute feast of Harissa soup eaten with dates and sweet pastries, followed by the traditional Pastisse… they are calling it chicken but I’m pretty damn sure it’s pigeon! Then comes some superb fish and an array of stuffed vegetables… carrot, capsicum, onion… it’s great. And as we are about to burst there’s the presentation of Ktefa. The setting is authentic, staff superb and the food wholesome. It’s obviously a spot the guides take their guests as there’s a group of very loud American’s who we follow out, but it was great all the same.
We wake to the sound of call to prayer, it’s definitely not calm or soothing, but it makes sense, an age-old Muslim practice that transports you to the here and now.
The markets of Fes are a hive of activity, both with locals and tourists. It offers all you think and maybe a bit more… I was prepared for the meat, carcasses, offal, but not for the camel and sheep heads… that was a lot! The fragrant herbs and spices, variety of olives, wood ovens baking the locals bread, it was a treat. The smell is a raw mix of food, spices, leather, sweat and fumes, but it’s not dirty, it’s just an incredible concoction of everyday life in Fes.
What does smell though, and smell so bad they offer you handfuls of fresh mint on arrival, is Chouara Tannery. Four floors up we look down the hustle and bustle of the working tannery with its vats of skins and dyes, the smell is horrendous, it’s a mixture of blood, bones, carcass and death… it invades your nostrils, completely putrid. I’m a little squeamish so the whole thing was a lot, as interesting as the process was, I didn’t linger too long. The quality of the craft and goods on sale is superb, from leather bags to belts, jackets to shoes, in cow, sheep, goat and camel leather… take your pick!
The ceramics, both tiles and pottery, around the city are a testament to the local artisans, past and present. Visiting a ceramic centre, the use of local clay, all-natural colours and centuries of craftsmanship is on display. If you’re in the market for a tagine pot, tea set, table or outdoor fountain you’re in the right spot.
In every riad, hotel, restaurant and home the use of rugs is prevalent. They’re for soundproofing, heat, colling, decoration, adornment, and they tell a story. From the Arabic, to the Berber, embroidered to weaved, again with local and natural produce. We were taken through the stories behind the rugs at Palais Quaraouiyine which gave us both history on the designs, the materials and the craftsmanship. What’s best about these sessions is while you know you’re being sold to, you also gain a greater understanding of the culture and people in it.
For dinner our guide was keen to take us to a great rooftop restaurant in a palace – L’Amandier. Didn’t have the heart to tell him but it was mediocre. They decided it was too cold so you couldn’t go on the terrace, inside you could have been anywhere, the place was filled with loud English and American tourists and the food was average. But good things come out of everything… it did push us to tell him we wanted local food the next night, so we were headed to the great the night markets of Jemaa El-Fna Square.
