Driving out the same way we came in, the land on both sides of the highway is dry and unforgiving, the fields are well turned with the earth shades of the creamy clay through to dark brown. Once we pass Casablanca the landscape changes, it’s fertile, well irrigated and looks to be producing an abundance of fresh produce. Again, the fields are neatly furrowed and well organised, straight lines, strong fences. It reflects what I now know is the Moroccan’s great pride in their produce, their land and their ethos, it’s about looking after what you have. In the background there’s a modern twist, factories, machinery, drilling rigs, antennas, and behind that looms the length of the Atlas Mountains, shrouded in history. The trip by road between the cities takes about 5 hours, crossing the King Mouhamed VI bridge, 6 years old and a real bonus for the overland trek. The roads and highways are smooth, clear and look to be recently constructed – there’s been a lot of money spent here.
From the desert drive we head into the palm tree oasis that is Marrakech, a great Berber city at the foot of the Atlas Mountains. It’s low-rise profile of red and pink mudbrick buildings giving off a sense of order and uniformity. We cross the river which is barely a trickle, the drought is hitting everywhere hard it seems.
Through the ancient narrow gates is the chaos of the main medina, I feel more of a sense of being in Morocco. This is what I had expected, it’s not dirty but dusty, loud, busy, the bus stops are full of people waiting in line with bags of produce, everyone’s trying to escape the glare of the harsh afternoon sun. Our Riad is hidden next to a car park and workshop, the doors giving no indication of what’s inside. The Villa De Orangers is an old palace that has been beautifully restored, complete with citrus trees and fountain in the main courtyard, three pools, a hammam and numerous lounge areas. Our villa is sumptuous with a huge bathroom, real fireplace and spacious lounge. The surprise is up the steep, narrow stairs… a roof top terrace overlooking the villa and the medina, all the way out to the Atlas Mountains. It’s superb.
Back out in the medina is a chaotic mix of people, cars, motorbikes, carts and horses, horns are honking, whistles blowing and there’s constant chatter… it’s all friendly! The Souk Semmarine is again a labyrinth of alleyways, corridors, rooms, stalls and shops. It’s just what you’d expect… marvelously busy, productive and full of activity. It’s dusty and the smells waft in from the spices to the leather, metal workers to butchers, but none of it’s overpowering. Locals jostling to buy their daily produce and tour groups manage to lumber in and out, standing where it’s most inconvenient and slowing down the natural traffic flow. The locals say COVID hit them hard here, but I think there would have been some relief from the mass tourism that runs rampant through the country. Great for the economy but a challenge to live with. Having said that the hospitality of the Moroccans is truly gracious, warm and inviting. From the Riads to restaurants, street sellers to taxi drivers, you’re welcomed, thanked and give a kind farewell, even if you don’t purchase anything. It’s a reflection of a deeply caring society that has integrated religions, races and ethnicities for thousands of years, the Phoenicians, the Berbers, the Arabs, Jews and Christians, living together respecting humanity and each other’s values. They’ve had it right for centuries as it seems the world around them is imploding.
The colours of Morocco are intense and beautiful… bright blues, deep purples, emerald greens, luminous yellows… it inspires creativity, Yves St Laurent agreed. He bought the majestic Jardin Majorelle garden from the French painter Jacques Majorelle, with Pierre Bergé in 1980 and worked on and off in Marrakech. When he died, Berge set up the Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé Foundation, opening up the gardens and part of his villa to the public. Within the walls a Berber museum pays tribute to the local people and 100 metres up the road the Musée Yves Saint Laurent showcases his life, times and workmanship. It’s a place of beauty and reflection among the grit of Marrakech life.
The Jemaa el-Fna is the open square at the centre of the median and holds the most incredible night markets … as an Unesco World Heritage site, filled with local energy, excitement and activity, it’s a sight to behold. I’m always skeptical of tourist traps but our guide explains, Moroccan’s are social people, they gather to eat and talk, and it’s evident in the crowds amassed on a Tuesday night that it’s the life and soul of the city. I’d estimate about 80% of the people are locals, there’s still plenty of tourist but not overwhelming. They’re dancing, singing, gambling, selling food, sweets, fresh juice and anything else you want… it’s all right there in the market place. The haze of the smoke settles over the square, lanterns and spot lights cast a hundred different shadows and the mixture of drums, guitars, tambourines, chatter and techno music bring it all together.
The food stalls all offered similar fare, meat like the merguez sausages and kefta, , fish and vegetables,all grilled over hot charcoal bbq’s, giving off a distinctive smokey flavour. For the vegos’s the maakouda is a must try, tasty little potatoe fritters. There was also the lamb’s head stew – I didn’t partake in that but Kerry indulged and said it was great! The stall holders are delightful, trying to grab a sale wherever they can, but also offering great hospitality… it’s amazing what you can provide in such simple circumstances. We didn’t spend hours there, although it looks like the locals do, but it was enough to feel a part of the magic and excitement Jemaa el-Fna market exudes.
The courtyards and gardens of the Bahai Palace showcase the basis of a Riad – they’re open aired with lush and vibrant plants, from citrus to palm, designed this way for the women who were never allowed out – this was their whole world. The ornamental ceilings at the Bahai Palace stand out – they’re intricate, detailed and meticulously designed with inscriptions and rich colour. Each one is different, depending on where the inhabitant was in the hierarchy, the higher up, of course, the more detailed. The serenity and coolness of the courtyards heightened by birds chirping… you can almost hear the giggles of gowned women, waiting, with little else to do but pass time. It’s a lifestyle that has such deep history it’s easy to dismiss, but no doubt it was not as easy as it seems. Isolated, controlled and locked up.
Back in the old Jewish part of the Medina is a square that was used for trading, mainly with other African’s, once or twice a year with Europeans. Even today the entrance to this side of the Souk is full of barrels of spices and herbs, there’s fine linen and a mix of tourist stalls – all seem to do a healthy trade.
The Villa de Orangers is a welcome oasis at the end of the day given the heat rises rapidly and by about 4pm is scorching. Around the pool tables are set with crisp white tablecloths and fine crystal with tea lights casting faint shadow through the olive trees. The meal that follows is worthy of the setting. Delicate capatcio, superb chicken and cous cous tagine, tart cooling sorbet. One of the many reading rooms has an exquisitely carved wooden chess board set up – the perfect way to finish off a night.
The wine of Morocco is again worth mentioning, the white that impressed most was the Volubilia Blanc wine, made at the Domaine de la Zouina near Meknes, it was crisp, dry, medium body and refreshing, the Volubilia Rosé was also a nice drop. As far as red wine goes, there’s plentiful grape varieties including Carignan, Alicante, Syrah, Tempranillo, Grenache and Cinsaut, but if you’re unsure you can’t go past the Val d’Argan reds.
The hamman, another world under the Riad, is a magnificently marbled, heated with natural springs and wood fires, it’s a trip back in time. Steamed, lathered and foamed followed by a massage…and the perfect way to say farewell to the marvel that is Morocco.
*This was an Abercrombie & Kent tailor made tour
