For me there are few cities in the world that hold the intrigue of Berlin. .We’re given the chance to visit, and it was impossible to pass up. While the rest of Germany seems to wish it away, I want to know more.
We land and Berlin Brandenburg Airport certainly gives off a Cold War vibe, functional but not fancy. The ceilings are low, the building stark, it’s bland, dated and austere.
The drive in is bleak, the fields and buildings grey, it’s drab. But on arrival we are greeted by a sprawling city with wide open spaces, parks and the vast fores that is the Tiergarten. Through the winter gloom, and from under the shadows of the past, there is a sense of anticipation.
Berlin’s history is dark, cruel and sinister, there is no getting away for this. Yet there is a self-examination and expressions of remorse obvious in the museums, buildings and monuments. The scars of war evident in bridges with bullet holes and monuments damaged. But while buildings are restored and the city is beautified, the past is not forgotten… all is laid bare.
We joined a walking tour from West to East, “World War Two and the Cold War”. Our guide, Jamie, is an Englishman, his wife is East German and he’s been in Berlin for 23 years. As an archaeologist, his knowledge is immense, he is passionate about the city, he tells of what happened where, why and when. In a place that is so emotive, it feels like Jamie is almost neutral, sharing an educated and informed view, on the history that’s rarely heard.
We stand on the vast lawns of the Platz der Republik facing the Reichstag building, hearing the details of what happened when the Russians came, fought and conquered. Interesting but horrific, the slaughter and loss of lives hard to comprehend, altogether brutal and senseless.
The Brandenburger Tor is superb. It’s an iconic landmark that has borne witness to so much, and still stands strong and proud. It’s been comprehensively renovated having fared badly in World War II. On top of the Gate is the sculptural quadriga (the chariot drawn by four horses—driven by Victoria, the Roman goddess of victory) with a chequered past of its own. In 1806 when Napolean defeated the Prussians, he was the first through the triumphal arch and took the quadriga back to Paris, but he was defeated 8 years later and it was returned to sit atop the Gate again… the irony of it!
The Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden Europas, is the Jewish memorial and translates to Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. The design of 2711 concrete blocks of different heights were chosen to not only remember the holocaust, but to question and confront… it does this superbly. From the uneven walk ways to the alleys and walls that swallow you, the feeling of apprehension and unease that surrounds. There’s ample space for soul searching and reflection. It’s a place of remembrance which is stark, harsh and brutalist… everything this memorial should be.
Berlin confronts the horrors of the past with tours like the Topography of Terror, aptly named to describe the holocaust. It is a museum built on the site of the SS central command and graphic reminder of Nazi persecution and terror. Promoted as “a place where terror is tangible, a place of remembrance and a warning from history”, there are no excuses, just facts. It’s raw, ruthless and confrontational, as it should be, but there is something very dark and evil that lurks… a reminder to the locals, to visitors, to the world, of a past that Berlin will never shake.
On our guides recommendation we head to the Berlin-Hohenschönhausen Memorial, a Stasi prison closed after the fall of the Berlin Wall and reunification of Germany. The tours are given by former prisoners and their relatives who share personal experiences… it’s confronting. Much is made of the fact that the Stasi was made up of Eastern Germans working hand in hand with the Soviets, to torture and persecute their own. Incredibly there still are former guards and ex-Stasi personnel who live in the area, it’s chilling to consider they walk freely, and occasionally take the tour to try and discredit the memorial.
There is a definite East verse West mentality that is inherent in Berlin. In the taxi on the way there, the driver said we were heading ‘deep into the east’, it immediately feels clandestine. He said it’s easy to tell people from East Berlin, their language, their mannerisms, their clothes… they’re different. This against us sentiment is a real thing, and I’m not sure how healthy it is to the healing and unification of the city.
But there is another side to Berlin, the modern side. The people are warm, welcoming and funny, the city is vibrant, lively and has remarkable beauty. Berlin is now known for its rich cultural and creative scene, fueled by a rebellious spirit. After WWII, there was no conscription so the city became a hub for those opposed to the establishment, attracting artists who embraced its non-conformist vibe. The underground music scene included famous names like David Bowie and Iggy Pop, and this bohemian, artistic vibe is still strong today.
The Bellboy Bar is a great local haunt for an after dark drink and snack (a must try… Asparagus “Pasta” and Luxury Chicken Nuggets), as far as drinks go, Not A Vesper is a martini with a difference… guaranteed to turn you into 007! Or for something for a little fun… the Keep Clean comes in a bubble bath complete with rubber duck… cute!
If you can get entry, I highly recommend The China Club, it is close to the Brandenberg Gate and absolutely superb. The Peace Bar luxurious, decadent, decorated in deep reds and vibrant gold, window trimmings and a perfect spot for an aperitif. The delightful food by Chef Tam Kok Kong in the restaurant, takes Chinese cuisine to another level, and the wine list is impressive. Set among an eccentric mix of Asian art and colonial, antique furniture, it’s a vibrant, joyous experience.
On the lower floor is The Indian Club – this is open to the public and well worth a visit. The décor crisp, clean and vibrant with outstanding staff and food to match. The Scallop Xacuti Curry is delicate and delicious, Tandoori Smoked Fennel Chicken, strong, punchy and full of flavour.
If you’re not sure what you want, head to KaDeWe. It’s one of Europe’s largest department stores and food halls with over 30 bars, restaurants and food stalls. Up a whole lot of escalators and you find the Champagne Bar, a treasure trove of bubbles, while Sumosan offers delicate, delicious Japanese. It’s an absolute gem that’s not just a tourist destination, but much loved by the locals too.
The hotel SO/ Berlin Das Stue is near KaDeWe and borders the Zoo, not so central to the main tourist drag but well worth the stay. It a 1930’s heritage building that’s elegant, stylish but also quirky. The parquetry floors and high ceilings contrast with the artwork which is modern and edgy, grand staircases lead to rooms are huge and superbly appointed. The staff are warm and welcoming which is reflected in the level of service offered. It’s unique, sophisticated and splendid.
While the brutal history of two world wars and great atrocities is ever present in Berlin, it is a modern day, vibrant metropolis. There is an incredible mix of ethnicity and religion which shines through in the food and culture. The restaurant’s are superb, the nightlife is unparalleled, the bars are lively, the cafes are bustling and we’re here winter… imagine what summer brings!
