The rugby world is gearing up for the 2023 World Cup to kick off in France this September, and the chants of Allez les Bleus can be heard through the packed bars, in winding alleyways, cobblestoned streets and at sporting grounds across the country. I’ve been a part of the World Cup three times before, and the way the French do it, is spectacular… the passion, the excitement, the atmosphere is superb.
While it is about ‘the Gilbert’ and rugby is at the centre of it all, my best memories of the 2007 World Cup were experiencing Paris for the first time. By chance, I managed to book an apartment on Île Saint-Louis, the historic heart of Paris. Hidden in plain sight is the Ille which is a haven with quaint bars, narrow cobbled streets and some of the most glorious old cafes, houses and shops. It remains our favourite part of the city, thanks to the amazing memories we made, from our 10-year-old son ordering “neuf croissant s’il vous plait” every morning at the bakery, to farcical attempts buying cheese at the incredible fromagerie (we worked out very quickly that pointing was going to be way easier than my feeble French requests)! It was a time before wide use of the internet so our knowledge of the area was limited. It ticked the boxes as a nice area, central and in an old, period apartment – oh how lucky we were.
Ile Saint Louis unveils the highlights of Paris without a hint of what’s to come, from easy strolls to the Pantheon and daily encounters with the magnificence of Notre Dame, to finding local cafes tucked away in meandering paved laneways and experiencing the incredible hospitality and humour of the Parisians. This was certainly something we were told the contrary of, but I still put it down to the fact we are Australian, it’s an incredible bond that our soldiers forged with the country in two world wars that has not been forgotten.
So, where to watch the rugby if you’re not lucky enough to be at the game? In Paris, there is plenty to choose from, so throw on your Wallabies scarf and head out to be a part of the World Cup mania.
- Eden Park Pub is found in the 6th at 10 Rue Princesse – the name is sacrilege for an Aussie but it’s a good vibe, and it is a rugby mecca in Paris.
- The Moose, again in the 6th and it is Canadian, offering a whole array of sports. It’s a great spot with decent food and plenty of space… but you still end up packed in, which is all part of the fun.
- Café Oz Grands Boulevards is in the 9th, it’s Australian and smells like a pub, on the upside you are more likely to get a seat here.
If you’re up for some incredible French produce, and to submerse yourself in the culture, you simply must go to the markets. On any given day they are all over Paris but my favourites are
- Marche Bastille every Thursday and Sunday the Boulevard Richard Lenoir comes alive with over 100 stalls, it is a sensory overload with bright red tomatoes, strawberries and cherries, besides deep green spinach, vibrant peaches entwined with the smell of potatoes roasting in chicken fat, massive paellas simmering, and freshly shucked oysters presented along with a glass of fresh white wine. Not to forget the huge range of meat, creamy cheeses, rich pates and chunky terrines and pain de viande, it is superb.
- Marché des Enfants Rouges not so much a market as an assortment of restaurants, stalls and wine bars, offering up a variety of food from all over the world, it’s relatively cheap and cheerful, the buzz and chatter creates a fresh and fun vibe. A great spot at any time of the day, with a group or by yourself, there is a lot on offer.
- Marche Maubert is on the edge Boulevard Saint-Germain, it is a smaller market but open on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday’s. This is real locals’ market… it’s all about quality, lining up for 10 minutes to get farm fresh eggs alongside mushrooms of every shape, size and colour, is the norm and no one is fussed. If you want an authentic experience, this is place, the square is quaint, the stallholders welcoming and the focus is on food.
For accommodation, if you’re in Paris for any length of time, I would not book Stayz or TheSquare – there is absolutely no customer security as we found out (that’s another blog)! But we did find a complete gem as a result of this…Olord, Résidence Hoteliere, a street back from the Champs Elysées. These are superb new apartments, beautifully decorated, fully equipped with the security of a hotel and include a front desk and cleaners, plus there’s a great den complete with fireplace and pool table.
For restaurants the biggest tip is make sure you book… use the Fork to get early bird discounts, but most importantly, have a reservation. It may not look busy but often people are turned away for no apparent reason other than they don’t have a booking… in France reservations are king! A couple of my faves;
- Les Papilles, the most incredible French bistro which also sells wine and has a deli of sorts. It’s unique but has truly delicious local food that’s cooked traditionally… it’s a revelation!
- Akira Back Paris is a sublime Japanese gastronomic experience. The Sashimi tacos and lobster tempura are a must, the interior is slick, modern and edgy with a DJ supplying some great dinner tunes. It’s on Avenue George V in the 8th, which is a real indication of it’s position, poise and reputation… it’s a special night out.
- Le Baron Rouge for oysters, cheese and wine. It is rustic, charming and slightly chaotic, best on a Sunday for breakfast to get over the night before! It’s in the 12th and a real gem.
Of course, there are the ultimate tourist destinations, the iconic Eiffel Tower and the Louvre, it’s sheer size completely overwhelming but constantly fascinating. There’s also the magic of the Musee D’Orsay, each visit reveals a little more, and the breathtaking beauty and historical significance of the Arc De Triomphe.
But there are also some lesser-known spots that shouldn’t be missed. Anytime of the day, head to the Luxembourg Gardens, see the stylish worshipping the sun on laidback lawn chairs, students gathering in groups around the flowerbeds, parents pushing out model sail boats and joggers purposefully moving down the tree-lined promenades. This is a park for the locals, the fashionista’s, the families and the fitness fanatics. It is beautiful, from the flourishing flowers to the fruit gardens, bronzed statues and flowing fountains, there is something for everyone.
After something a little more elaborate? Head to the bridge… Pont Alexandre III spans the Seine bridging the Champs-Elysees to the Invalides, it’s majestic, decadent and so over the top. It vividly brings to life the spectacle of processions, Kings and Queens, victors and leaders in horse drawn carriages… the golden arches leading the way, the angelic statues standing guard… it’s grand and gorgeous, are a brilliant reminder of the riches and power that Paris once held.
After dark head to Sacré-Cœur Basilica, the grand old church with its magnificent dome on the hill of Montmartre, overlooking the city of lights. At night, gone are the bus loads of tourists, replaced with locals and lovers sitting on the steps. There’s beatbox music mixed with passionate murmurings, excited chatter and lots of laughter. Take a leaf out of the Parisian’s book, share a beer or drink wine from paper cups… take a minute and it’s here you’ll feel like you’re truly living life.
