Bloomsbury is unknown to me, so I booked The Kimpton Fitzroy with some trepidation. It is in a stunning old building overlooking Russell Square. The entrance is unassuming but once inside it’s a grand old treasure, with marble stairs, high ornate ceilings and decadent chandeliers. It’s been mindfully renovated and beautifully reflects the history of the building. As expected, the rooms are small and ensuites tight. It’s a central location with nice staff, and while it’s good, it’s not great. There is a little something that is lacking in the service, and the polish, as a whole.
Narrow cobble stoned alleyways that hide the secrets of yesteryear in London’s West End, ooze old world charm while being vibrant, quirky and fun. Bob Bob Ricard is nestled among the mayhem of Soho, a smart suited doorman welcomes us on arrival and from there we’re guided to our booth down the stairs in the underground section. It’s an early sitting, and while the décor is sumptuous with dark mahogany timber, rich velvets and an old world charm it’s lacking atmosphere… there’s a strange mix of people which makes it feel like we’ve been put out of sight down below. The service is helpful and efficient, the food an interesting mix. The old school prawn cocktail was delicious with a spicy dressing and plenty of fresh crunchy lettuce, the truffle, potato and mushroom vareniki are luscious little dumplings full of flavour but the lobster macaroni and cheese, unfortunately fell a little flat, it was nice but nothing amazing. The Domaine Sylvain Bailly Sancerre was crisp, dry and hit the spot, as did the novelty of a “Push for Champagne” button!
Looking to explore a little further afield than Harrods, the Tower and the tried tourist hot spots we decided on an East London Food Tour: Shoreditch, Brick Lane & Spitalfields. What an absolute delight it was, a multi-cultural melting pot with a history that is so old it’s goes back to the start of the city and has stories, legends and tales that have evolved from there.
Our guide was James, a screenplay writer with a vast knowledge of all things London, history, food and local tidbits. Starting at the Shoreditch end of Brick Lane, our first stop was in Hoxton Fruit and Veg that make a tasty spinach flatbread. It’s a local shop with an Arabic twist, the salads, fruit, and produce were fresh and authentic.It was quaint and quirky with a homely feel.
Across the road is the Beigel Bake Brick Lane, an incredible institution that is open 24/7, with a line-up of hungry locals around the clock. Now I’m not salt/corned beef fan, but the traditional soft Beigel with gherkins, mustard and huge hunks of meat were to die for… one bite and I instantly understood why people were lining up… it’s a revelation!
Any chocolate lovers must visit Dark Sugars, it’s heaven, with massive wooden hand carved bowls holding mounds of an incredible array of chocolate. It’s rich, decadent and one hell of a sugar hit!
A food tour would not be complete without the English staple… fish and chips (apparently the only food not to be rationed in the War). In Hanbury Street, we sampled the best Poppies Fish and Chips had to offer, and they delivered… light fluffy batter, juicy, sweet fish and great chips. The national delicacy did not disappoint!!
The street art is incredible, every surface is painted, some amateurish, some professional and everything in-between. It’s a journey in itself, from the complex and complicated to the simple, there’s something for everyone. Quirky and weird is the norm, the story of the Broccoli Man a testament to this. In his words, he was a chef at the Savoy, gave up work, starting painting real broccoli and sticking it all over Brick Lane. He had to change to fake broccoli (casts he has made himself), after poisoning the odd late night lout leaving the pub…tourists loved it, asked for the broccoli to be frames, he headed to Ikea, purchased some frames, stuck different painted broccoli in said frames, and three years on he’s sold 30,000 versions of this! And now he’s talking about Broc Martens being added to his range, how true this is I’m not sure but it’s amazing what sells!
East London is where the breweries setup in the mid 17th century, and it’s where hops were discovered to be a preservative. Brick Lane was the home to the Black Eagle Brewhouse, changing to the Truman Brewery, London’s largest for centuries. While it’s no longer a brewery, the history of Truman’s is deeply ingrained in the history of Brick Lane.
Now, I know every Aussie in London will roll their eyes, but for me, Brick Lane was a stand out from the tottering buildings to the street signs written in Bengali, it’s a nod to the past. The mix of cultures, food, drink, art and people… with a diverse history including Jack The Ripper, the Kray twins, immigrants, grafters and the poor…it’s now trendy, artistic and a hell of a lot of fun, with story upon story, from the weird to the wild, and well worth a visit for the uninitiated!
