The clouds in Provence are straight out of a Renaissance painting, fluffy but with a vivid intensity… you’d not be surprised if a cherub dropped into sight. The light is soft and gentle, giving off an amber hue, it is truly divine. All this is helped by our location, the impressive Chateau de Berne, set smack bang in among acres of vineyards and olive trees, high in the hills with amazing views, it’s special.
The Chateau de Berne is one of Provence’s most visited wineries, with a Relais & Châteaux hotel and Michelin Star restaurant, it looks old but that’s deceiving – the majority of the estate was built after 1995, when British entrepreneur Mark Dixon bought it. And wow, what a job he’s done! The wine shop and cellar door are housed in one of the original buildings along with The Bistro. It is an interesting spot that is very casual but seems a little removed from the hotel. The Bistro is standard and seemed a little plain offering wood fired pizza, hamburgers and a menu du jour, but when we got our food, my goodness what a treat and truly tasty for such a simple menu.
There is also the one Michelin star Le Jardin de Berne, with Chefs Louis Ramea, and Eric Raynal which the property is noted for. Our visit is the first night of a new menu and for me the winner was the Leek, Head in the Air with a 2021 Benjamin Leroux, Bourgogne, Blanc – it was superb from the crispy leek head to the succulent bulb accompanied with the perfect wine. The trout poached in Cabernet France, accompanied by a Cheverny Rouge was a little too much, and the duck fell completely flat. The presentation was also uninspired apart from the hors-d’oeuvres – tasty morsels of snail served in a rustic piece of timber. It’s a beautiful, if somewhat relaxed, setting… it was nice but not a standout.
Tourtour is an easy drive that takes you up into the hills of Provence. The trees give way to some break taking views but the real gem is the village. The square is all you hope for, quaint, tree lined with uneven, aged cobblestones, the hustle and bustle of everyday life buzzing around. The buildings are a hodge podge, some picture perfect with bountiful flower boxes, classic wooden shutters and cast iron railings to the deserted, ruins covered in vines, with weeds growing through the cracks… it’s all laid raw. The streets are steep and narrow, the alleyways intriguing and at every turn a view that catches your breath. This is the Provence I’ve dreamed of.
Provence is wine, and of course, we head to the wineries. It’s a treat, narrow bridges, dirt tracks, one way roads, the first is Chateau D’Astros. The tasting room is modern and well presented, the staff helpful and the wine great. The Amour white, AOP Côtes de Provence was my favourite… dry, light and slightly minerally. It’s worth a walk to the Chateau (about 5 minutes way), the building is superb having been looked after by nine generations of the same family.
Next up is Chateau la Martinette … it seemed like a back road through vineyards and along walled dirt roads but then the estate appears. It is a stunning facility that now houses the cellar, tasting rooms, restaurants, administration and dispatch all in one location… the view, on the hillside, looking over the vineyards is superb. It’s an old Domaine that’s embracing it’s past but progressive and dynamic – the white wine, Clos Blanc 2021 is a reflection of this, and definitely worth a splash! Be sure to take the road through the vines and over the bridge on the way out, passing by the original Chateau, it’s a journey back in time.
The village of Lourges is close by so our final night is at La Table de Pol, located in the village centre. The food is great, the ravioli an absolute winner, and the service is friendly and attentive. The surprise for me was the village itself… on the outskirts it is rather plain but once in the main centre it is stunning. During the day the farmers markets and local bric-a-brac is great, filled with local, in season fresh produce, antiques and craft. It’s quite delightful and sums up the general attitude of the region, it’s rustic but refined, casual and sophisticated, it’s simply superb!
