Let’s start with the ship … because it begins and ends with Lindblad’s National Geographic Resolution and the team that takes us to the end of the earth, into Antarctica.
The port of Ushuaia is not so much a working port more cruise boat busy… there’s three lining the dock, but they’re not the 10 level behemoths of casino and cabaret land, these are expedition boats, and the National Geographic Resolution is the best of the best. It was custom built for ice breaking and exploration, branded in the signature royal blue and yellow of Nat Geo, it’s a superb looking vessel.
We’re heading off on the 12 day Journey to Antarctica: The White Continent, and heading up the gangplank, I can’t wait to go … the air is electric, excitement and adventure awaits. We are greeted by the crew and promptly escorted to our room, struck along the way, by the art installations that adorn the corridors. They are works of local artists, each with a different story, and perspective, on the region, and what it brings. It’s an indication of what’s to come, it’s this attention to detail that makes the National Geographic Resolution so special.
The choice of a balcony has already paid off… it is a superb space, practical, but luxurious and sympathetically decorated to it’s surrounds. The cushions and quilt are a pale blue and grey silk that melts into the sky outside, the bed is adorned in crisp white linen sheets, the bathroom is roomy and sleek. But the best part was to come… the rooms were serviced twice a day, every day, by an amazing housekeeping team, what bliss!
Very quickly we get into the swing of things and understand what’s to come. Each night cocktails start at 6pm in the Ice Lounge, but it’s more than just a chance for a drink – the naturalists, who come from all over the globe, stand in the ‘Circle of Truth’ and recap on the day’s adventures, and speak on a wide range of topics. From pioneering women to seal poo, underwater antics to migration patterns, it’s all there, presented by an expedition team of scientists, photographers and experts bursting with passion and enthusiasm. An added bonus is when the weather won’t let up, or we cross the Drake Passage, these presentations cover more and go from mid-morning to late afternoon… it’s a great way to while away the day.
Not having been on a cruise before, I was keen to see how it all worked, and oh boy, I was not disappointed. Restaurant 270 on the main deck, an impressive space with wrap around views and a galley kitchen, serving every meal of the day. Most nights was a diverse and delicious three-course menu, which was always superbly cooked and presented, from slow cooked beef fillets to lobster, pasta and rich, scrumptious desserts. The wine was fitting, mainly South American with the occasional variation like a Rioja or Napa Valley, the service was impressive, and we were never left wanting.
There were lighter brekky and lunch options in Tupaia on the top deck, it was a more casual and relaxed setting but with killer views. The food was simple and satisfying, just not so calorie dense! A good call on a long trip.
Additionally, there was the Cook’s Nook… a ‘family table’ that seats about 20 people who are invited to share the Chef’s Degustation which is based around sustainable eating and a zero waste menu. It’s a great concept that included the Chef explaining how he has embraced no waste cooking, and illustrated it with exceptional dishes – cauliflower scallops, lamb and an impressive sorbet, pastry and chocolate drops. The wine pairing was an added bonus, free flowing and inspired!
On a day of fine weather we are treated with a BBQ lunch served outdoors on the top deck. Tables and chairs were set, complete with polar capes to keep you warm (plus there was a cup or two of hot Glühwein). Anything that could be put on the BBQ was, the sides were abundant, from corn to fries, mac & cheese, and salads aplenty. The sweets table was a treat complete with an outstanding donut display and enough sugar to tip you over the edge. It was BBQ on steroids with breathtaking surrounds – simply extraordinary.
The ship is not just about the food and wine though… the Sanctuary on the top floor is sensational with a gym, two saunas and open-air hot tubs that offer an incredible view of the magnificence of Antarctica. It’s hard to beat! Morning stretches in the Yoga Studio with full length windows, take whale watching to a whole new dimension. On the back deck are two Igloos that can be booked for an overnight stay, but with over 100 guests this proved to be near impossible. I thought I booked in 7th on the list, but we were not given an invite so I’m not sure how it works. Great concept though if you can get in, with a double bed, hot water bottles and what promise to be stunning views of the polar night skies.
Spread out over eight levels, the ship is spacious, you never feel crowded, there is always a quiet corner to sit in. The Observatory at the front, on the top deck, is perfect for whale watching, to read a book, play a board game or gather around the fireplace and share a drink. To be honest, we didn’t spend a lot of time there as we were so busy with all the other activities… we were spoiled for choice, but the few stolen moments here were pure bliss.
The staff on Lindblad’s Resolution are incredibly gracious, attentive and knowledgeable – they genuinely love their jobs and thrived on the pure joy the boat brings to everyone. Captain Heidi Norling is a powerhouse, as is the head of hospitality, Laura Fuentes, and Dan, in charge of Operations is about the coolest cat around. We’re woken up with him strumming the ukulele each morning followed with a quote or poem, then a daily update. It’s ridiculously calming!
As a team, Dan and Captain Heidi had a gift for navigating around inclement weather, tweaking our position, and destination as the conditions changed. At one stage, a large low-pressure system was approaching the Shetland Islands, and together they were able to pinpoint breaks in the weather making sure we were exactly where we needed to be. On top of that, each night Dan kept us updated on what they were expecting, and how together, they were going to deal what was to come. We could not have been in better hands, and that’s a priceless comfort when you’re in one of the most remote and isolated places in the world.
Away from his strumming solos, Dan oversaw Base Camp with an extensive offering of daily activities, from long to short hikes, Zodiac cruises to kayaking, and then the show stopping “Polar Plunge”. It was organised with military precision and efficiency, but was always entertaining, exhilarating and left you sated but keen for more. Having the knowledge and skills of the expedition team driving the zodiacs every day was a tremendous bonus, it was never just a boat ride, it was an adventure filled with facts, figures and a heap of fun. On top of that was the highlight of landing, and walking, on Antarctica. It’s a special place that was incredibly enriching with amazing spontaneous encounters each and every day.
The level of service wasn’t reserved for the restaurants… a bonus on braving the polar conditions was hot tea service in Base Camp (offered with a shot of whatever took your fancy) and a freshly made cookie… that was a winner no matter what time of the day! They took it to the next level on one of the outings where we sidled up to a Zodiac, that served hot chocolate laced with the liquor of your choice… that’s the stuff that makes memories.
While Lindblad gives a comprehensive list of what to take, I’d add a couple of things… first up cosy uggs, being an Aussie I took thongs but they were of no use, you definitely need the warmth and comfort of something to slip into and wander around in. Plus, throw in a second set of glove – when it was wet out, they didn’t dry in time, and the general consensus was that mittens were best. It was also a bonus having a dress shirt to put on for the Welcome Cocktail Party, Cooks Nook and the Captains Farewell… you don’t have to but the crew made an effort so why not?!
The feared Drake Crossing was at the forefront of everyone’s mind on the first day… and the last few. How big, how bad, how long, how horrific? We had different fears and phobias. But the crew, and on-board Doctor D, were phenomenal at being calm, positive and reassuring. I took the medication prescribed in Australia, the Americans all had Scopolamine ear-patches… apparently banned in Australia for their psychotic side effect (but everyone seemed fine to me)! It was heaving and swaying, pitching and rolling but not disturbingly so. The ship was made for these conditions, and boy, was I happy for that. It wasn’t calm, and yes, I did get the occasional bout of nausea but it was manageable. Dr D prescribed fresh air, ginger ale and crackers, on top of some good drugs, to anyone who feel victim to the Drake Shake!
This was an experience that truly surpassed all expectations. It was the little things and it was the big things… it was everything, there was so much to take in. Beginning with the bright orange polar coats, complete with National Geographic patches and fur trimmings that are laid on your bed, and yours to keep… to the open Bridge, expert expedition staff, photographers on hand to help, the polar plunge, cosy outdoor fireplaces to enjoy an evening drink and just a feeling of being so privileged to be a part of the wonder that is Antarctica. Its silence, its serenity, its harshness, breathtaking beauty and wondrous wildlife, all experienced in the lap of luxury.
