Darwin in the wet season is not for the faint-hearted. The humidity is high, the temperatures soar, sweat becomes a way of life, and air-conditioning is a welcome relief. While it’s not ideal for outdoor activity, if you time it right, there are magical ways to explore.
For the adventurous, there’s the incredible Heli Pub Crawl with Airborne Solutions. The pubs are a major feature, of course, but the breathtaking coastline and aerial views of the waterways are unbeatable. The base is only 10 minutes from the centre of Darwin, where the welcome is warm, the offices are cold, and the service is superb.
After a quick safety briefing, we jump into a five-seater helicopter, take off, and head over Darwin Port and out to sea. Drew, the pilot, has a quirky sense of humour and a vast knowledge of the region. The scenery is spectacular, with tropical savannah woodlands, wild scrub, long winding rivers, and billabongs. Deep gullies of water carve through yellow sand and stream out to sea, creating a kaleidoscope of colours—blue, green, and grey—sparkling and shimmering at every turn.
Our first stop is Dundee Beach. The brand-new Dundee Beach Tavern looks out over the water, and a cooling sea breeze makes it even better. A jug of Pimm’s goes down a treat. There’s a steady stream of locals in singlets and thongs buying cartons of beer, a couple who look set for the day, and kids splashing in a shallow pool, blissfully unaware of the heat. It’s a quintessential Top End experience.
Back on board, we head to Crab Claw Island. The thick, impenetrable mangroves, their deep green contrasting against rich red mud and sparkling blue waters, are a stunning sight. At Crab Claw Island Resort, we’re greeted by Frank, who arrives on a tractor with a hay-covered trailer for us to sit on. It’s a quick drive to the bar that overlooks the smooth, tranquil waters of Bynoe Harbour.
The restaurant and bar are up a flight of stairs, set in a truly tropical, open-air space with a corrugated iron roof. It’s quiet—just the way we like it—because we’re here for the views, and they’re stunning.
Flying amongst occasional fluffy white clouds, we head inland over fertile floodplains. Below, clusters of cathedral and magnetic termite mounds dot the rich bushland, which gradually gives way to farms and houses as we approach our final stop: the Darwin River Tavern.
This typical pub is everything you’d expect, complete with locals perched comfortably at the bar, enjoying the air-conditioning. Lunch is a classic pub burger with a glass of crisp white wine—the perfect way to finish the day.
This ultimate pub crawl perfectly encapsulates the essence of the Top End, from the stunning, shimmering coastline and weaving waterways to the laid-back pub life. It’s brilliant!
For land lovers, Litchfield National Park is a local gem just over an hour’s drive from Darwin. Heading south, the Stuart Highway is flanked by flourishing native gum trees, their blackened trunks bearing testament to ancient cycles of backburning and regeneration.
The parking area at Greenant Creek is deserted, the only sign of recent activity being a storm that has left fallen trees and branches in its wake. As a registered sacred site, the 2.7 km walk along Greenant Creek to Tjaetaba Falls promises to be special. Starting in cool monsoon forest, the trail leads out into the heat of savanna woodlands.
The hike begins over a small wooden walkway, with crystal-clear water running beneath. The air is thick and smells of rain and wet earth, alive with the chirping and singing of birds. Tall forest trees tower above, their roots and ground covered in vibrant moss. On a gentle slope, wild pink ginger plants are in full bloom, creating a magical scene.
The sweltering heat of the wet season hits as the trail climbs into the savanna. The path is washed out in places, strewn with debris—a stark contrast to the burnt stumps and tree trunks that hint at this land’s cycles of fire and flood.
The craggy red granite rocks of Tjaetaba Falls, with their steady stream of crystal-clear water, are a welcome sight. The gentle flow from the rock pools at the top to the falls below creates an incredible spot for a refreshing dip. Lying on the cool granite slab with my head resting on a rock is a spiritual sensation—the sound of water trickling past, the brilliant blue sky overhead—tranquil and reflective.
Next, we head to Tolmer Falls, where a torrent of water cascades from the sandstone plateau of the Tabletop Range to the gorge far below. While swimming isn’t allowed, impressive viewing platforms provide stunning views of the falls, the winding waterway, and the vast green expanse of lowlands beyond. According to Aboriginal stories and songs, this landscape was shaped during the “Dreamtime,” when spirit beings created its features as we see them today.
This is a special place—rich, vibrant, and as fertile as it is deadly. It’s striking, stunning, and truly unique. While Litchfield’s sheer size could easily fill days of exploration, given the hot and muggy wet season, I was happy to call it a day!
