Why would you want to visit the infamous Komodo dragons when you hate lizards? It’s a question I ponder as I stand on the beach in front of one of these giants. They are truly terrifying—huge prehistoric creatures that exude menace. They are daunting and dangerous, and I am deeply uncomfortable, even though this is a bucket-list moment.
The thing about these beasts is that they are located in an incredibly beautiful setting. We are in Flores, an island to the east of Bali—a gem in the Indonesian archipelago. The sea sparkles and shimmers, a crystal-clear blue and unpolluted (a rare thing in Asia these days). The volcanic islands provide a dramatic backdrop to the water, with beaches of pink, black, and white sand.
The gateway to Flores is through Labuan Bajo—not big enough to be called a city but larger than a village. The airport is right next to the port, which, while handy, does no favours to the exotic, tranquil, tropical location. There is a lot of construction, with large international hotels all vying for a place in the market. A few notable resorts are positioned on the beach and over the water, taking advantage of getting in early. It’s a working harbour, with local fishing boats heading out each day. There’s also a plethora of dive boats, as the water offers up a spectacular show of marine life. There are daily tourist cruises around the islands and plenty of explorers sailing from island to island, living the dream.
We were there in July for the opening of TA’AKTANA, Marriott’s Luxury Collection Resort & Spa. It’s a superb property, though not 100% finished when we stayed. But one thing they have in abundance is great staff—we are greeted by a troop of them when we arrive at the airport and are driven 5 minutes to the resort. From the hotel reception, the floor-to-ceiling view takes in the port, islands, and spectacular waterways. The craggy cliffs of the volcanic islands and ranges are a stark contrast to the vibrance of the tropical green forests.
As soon as you step into the lobby of TA’AKTANA, there is a strong sense of place and culture, with homage paid to the local tribes. This is evident through the use of local carvings, handicrafts, and intricately woven Manggarai tapestry. The bronzed artwork throughout encompasses folklore and stories of tribal rivalry, history, and duty.
The jewel in the crown of the resort is the overwater sea villa—there are seven of them, and even looking down on them from the lobby, they are incredible. But to get us there—God forbid we exert ourselves—our private butler, Lalu, drives us through the property on a buggy, showing us various points of interest. Restaurant, library, bar, pool, bar, restaurant… there’s plenty to see and lots to explore later.
But what we are here for is the villa. Perched at the end of the impressive jetty with unobstructed views out to sea, each has its own grand entrance. The wooden interior exudes classic luxury, the rugs are plush, and the pastel décor is tranquil. It’s a huge space, with a dining room and lounge that flow into the bedroom and one of the best bathrooms I’ve ever been in. There’s something delightfully decadent about showering with the windows open, gazing out to sea. There’s also an overwater netted bed—the perfect spot for an afternoon nap if the large wooden deck doesn’t take your fancy. The space is incredible, with the sound of fish and turtles jumping and water lapping—it is divine.
With a desire to share the hotel, Lalu is keen for us to see the ‘world’s best sunset’ from Maiga, the pavilion behind us. He says he’ll pick us up at 6 pm—we’re 50 metres away, but that’s apparently too far to walk. It really is something, with a view over the resort, but I think the outlook from our villa wins every other night.
Umasa offers ‘elevated’ Indonesian fare, with many ingredients grown at the hotel and most other produce sourced locally. With dark local wood panelling, high ceilings, and floor-to-ceiling windows, it is an impressive space. Again, the service is exceptional. The wine list is small but sufficient. The food is delicious and full of local flavours. The chicken satays, served over hot smoking coals, are a standout, and the local fresh fish is all it promised to be.
For a breakfast like no other, we return to the main reception building but sit out on the deck at Leros—a sublime location with views over the entire resort. We pick a table that, for the most part, is ours for the rest of our stay. The head chef introduces himself, and then we peruse the buffet. Normally, I’m not a fan of buffets, but the chef is keen to cook up a local breakfast dish if I’m happy to experiment. I go for the chilli concoction, and Kerry opts for the soup. Both are divine, and each morning they are replicated, with the staff remembering every detail from the day before and tweaking them to our daily desires. It’s a cracking way to start the day.
There’s plenty to see around the island of Flores, but we’re more inclined to indulge in the luxury of the resort and villa. For those seeking more adventure, there’s a two-hour trip to the hills and local tribes or a spot of swimming in the stunning Rangko caves. Island hopping is one of the big tourist drawcards, and given the beauty of the water and islands, it’s no wonder. But I’m not inclined to share these experiences, so we organise a private charter through the hotel. Sure, it’s a luxury and indulgent, but hey—after 30 years of marriage, it’s a fitting way to celebrate.
We board the boat next to our villa, and it appears we’re not alone—there are 10 staff for the two of us. A chef, a naturalist, the captain and skippers, a waiter, and a couple of others whose roles remain a mystery. It’s an absurd yet fantastic procession. Oh, what the day will bring.
The finale is at Kalong Island, where dense mangroves with taller trees in the middle are home to giant fruit bats. Every night at dusk, we are told, it’s a spectacle to see thousands of bats leaving their roosts to feed. The captain takes us straight to the front of the boats for the best position to sip on a drink and take in nature’s show, and it is all they promised.
While there are plenty of ways to see the islands, our way was particularly pretentious, but I’m not making any apologies—it was amazing, and I’d do it all again. Next time, I’d add the manta rays to the list—by all accounts, they are incredible, but that’s for another time.
This corner of the world remains largely untouched, where nature takes centre stage in all its raw beauty. While tourism is starting to make its mark, the breathtaking landscapes and extraordinary wildlife continue to be the true highlights, and with luxury like TA’AKTANA, Flores is sure to become an ‘it’ destination.
